A consultation is a MUST before you start ANY service! It is a verbal agreement between yourself and your Beard styles for pointy chin.
client. You must use this time to ensure you know exactly what your client wants and explain to them
anything that may affect the finished result that they expect. During the consultation you should ask open questions to ensure that you get the most information you can. This will also help you to be able to suggest styles that may suit them.
You will need to find out the following information:
• What exactly is it that they want?
• How long has it been since their last cut? This will help you establish how much they may want cut. Remember, hair grows an average of ½ inch a month.
• What do they like/dislike about their current cut/style?
• Anything that could affect the service – hair infections/ infestations, hair growth patterns, head and face shape etc.
• Lifestyle factors – If they want a quiff, do they have time to blow dry their hair? If they want patterns, are they suitable for their job/school?
• Do they use styling or finishing products?
Getting the right information during your consultation will lead to your client getting the right haircut.
Caucasian hair can be straight, wavy or curly. It can vary in colour from dark brown to light blonde. In a cross section, European hair is oval.
Asian hair is usually very straight, thick and strong. It varies in colour from very dark brown to medium brown. In a cross section, Asian hair is round.
African Caribbean hair is usually very tightly curled and very dark. It can also be very easily damaged. In a cross section, African Caribbean hair is similar to a kidney bean shape.
Beard styles for thin beards
Texture refers to the circumference of each individual hair. Hair can be fine, medium or coarse texture.
Density relates to the number of hairs on the head. A client with fine hair may have more hairs on their head than someone with coarse hair.
Hair growth patterns
Recognising hairline and growth patterns is an essential part of your consultation
Not noticing or ignoring adverse growth patterns when cutting can cause significant problems.
Sometimes these can be obvious, however your client may have blow-dried his hair to disguise a growth pattern so make sure you look closely at potential problem areas when the hair is dry and also spray down and look when hair is in its wet natural state.
– A cowslick is a small section of hair, usually at the front hairline, that either stands up straight or lays in the opposite direction to the rest of the hair.
– Normally, a person will have a section of hair at the crown of the head that appears to grow in a circular direction. A double crown is where this growth pattern appears twice, usually side by side.
– A nape whorl is where the hair grows in a spiral or curved shape at the nape. This can be on either side of the head and sometimes can be both which will form a v-shape.
– A Widow’s peak is a v-shaped point in the hairline in the centre of the forehead.
– Male pattern baldness or alopecia androgenetica is the most common cause of hair loss.
Recognising the head and face shape of your client is a vital part of the consultation in order to help you choose a suitable hair style
You will need to identify each client’s individual features to enable you to enhance their good features (cheek bones, eyes etc) and disguise their not so good features (large nose, big forehead etc). You will also need to take into consideration if they wear glasses, hearing aids etc.
The oval face is visually symmetrical and will suit all hair styles and facial hair.
The round face has a full and round jaw line and usually a round hairline. This face shape suits styles with shorter sides to give the impression of a thinner face, height on top to lengthen the face and off centre partings. They would also suit a neat moustache or a neat, tidy beard to slim and make the face appear longer.
The triangular face has a wide hairline, broad jaw line and narrow chin. This face shape suits styles that are short on top to keep the top of the head from being the focal point. Buzz cuts and cropped styles work well. The hair cuts should avoid sharp lines that define the hairline. They would also suit full beards designed to disguise the pointed chin.
The square face has a squared and broad jaw line. The forehead, cheekbones and jaw line are the same width. This face shape suits styles that are softer on the edges and similar to a round face shape, keep the sides shorter and the top higher to lengthen the face.
NO flat tops! They would also suit facial hair styles that may help their face appear less box-like – all over beards with hard lines, moustaches, goatees and neatly trimmed stubble.
The pear face has a narrow forehead and hairline with a broad jaw line. This face shape suits full, rounded hairstyles with the length the same all over, which are designed to balance the face. They would also suit a fuller beard trimmed to square off and slim the face.
The oblong face has narrow and straight sides with a slightly rounded chin. This face shape suits layered styles and wispy fringes. Stay away from styles that define the hair line and NO long sideburns. They would also suit a neatly shaped moustache designed to shorten the face and a neatly trimmed beard which would make the face appear shorter and squarer.
The diamond face has a rounded hairline, wider cheekbones and a narrow chin. This face would suit full fringes to square off the forehead. They would also suit a full beard which would square off the face and disguise a prominent chin.
The heart-shaped face is widest across the cheek bones and the eyes, with a broad forehead. The shape narrows at the jaw line and comes to a pointed chin. Most styles will look good on the heart-shaped face, though fullness on the sides of the head should be avoided, as that is the broadest point of the face. They would also suit a full beard which would help disguise a pointed chin.
Hair &, Skin Tests
Hair tests are required prior to carrying out a chemical service so are not usually necessary in a barbershop environment.
Purpose of Test –, To test for a reaction against colour.
How –, Mix a small amount of colour with peroxide and place it behind the ear with a cotton bud. Inform the client that it must stay on for 24-48 hours and advise the type of reaction that may occur if there is an allergy.
How –, Take a few strands of hair between the forefinger and the thumb of each hand and gently stretch. Hair in good condition should return to it’s original length. Bad condition hair will not return and may break.
Purpose of Test –, To determine the condition of the cuticle.
Beard styles for thin beards
How –, Take a few strands of hair between the forefinger and the thumb of one hand, with the other forefinger and thumb run your hand up the hair from end to root. If it feels smooth the hair is not porous, if it feels rough the hair is porous.
Purpose of Test –, A preliminary test to determine the suitability or result for colour or bleach.
How –, Take a small test cutting from the hair. Mix a small amount of tint or bleach with peroxide and apply to the cutting and await development. Rinse, dry and check result.
Purpose of Test –, To determine the presence of metallic salts.
How –, Prior to the service, a cutting is taken and placed in a solution of 20ml of 6% hydrogen peroxide and 1ml ammonium hydroxide. If it produces bubbles, heats, or the hair disintegrates, the service must not be carried out.
Purpose of Test –, To find out if a perm has fully developed.
How –, Unwind 1 perm rod 1 and 1/2 times and hold up and towards the scalp, if the size of the ’S’ shape corresponds to the size of the perm rod, the processing is complete.
This article has been taken from Mike Taylor’s Barbering Resource Book, which is available to buy from Salon Services. RRP £6.